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Waverley Park Heritage Conservation District

Just north of the former downtown Port Arthur lies one of the oldest municipal parks in all of Ontario - Waverley Park. This green space is a jewel at the centre of the Waverley Park Heritage Conservation District, a collection of historical homes, churches, schools, and other buildings that were at the centre of Port Arthur's development from a small outpost to a thriving cultural centre.

The centerpiece of the Waverley Park Heritage District is Waverley Park itself. The second oldest municipal park in all of Ontario Waverley Park is home to a number of unique cultural and historical sites.One of the largest features of the park are its giant cottonwood trees which tower above much of the park. Many have been removed in recent years, however, due to advanced age and disease. The tree's namesake cotton-like seeds have contributed to July 'Snow Storms' along Algoma Street that have reduced visibility to mere metres at times, although the effect is only contained with in a few dozen metres at best.

At the center of the park is the Hogarth Fountain, imported from England, was added to the park at a rather late point in its history. The park's previous focal point was the Memorial Cenotaph located a short distance away.
The fountain features nude children in a renaissance style, along with bundles of wheat and garlands of flowers. The water pours from the mouths of lions mounted above leaves which deflect the water away from the center and out into the pool.

The pool has been used, unofficially, since its original dedication in Orientation Week hazings at nearby Port Arthur Collegiate Institute.

The fountain was a gift to
the city of Port Arthur from
Mrs. Madge Hogarth in
honour of her husband Major
General D.M. Hogarth, an
early industrialist, sportsman,
soldier, and politician.
Originally from Luton Hoo
Mansion, Hitchen,
Hertfordshire, England,
the 10 ton portland stone
foundation which dates back
to 1790 was purchased and
shipped to Waverley Park in
1964. The Hogarth Fountain
was originally dedicated on
June 5, 1965. Following
extensive work in 2000
the restored fountain was
re-dedicated at a ceremony
on June 5, 2001.

This concrete pad used to be used to mount the HMCS Griffon's main gun during the November Remembrance Day ceremonies.

Another key point of the park is the large band shell near the PACI gymnasium.
The Rotary Thundershell was built in 1984 with funding from a number of local sources and was home for many years to the Summer In The Parks weekly concert series. The ThunderShell is marked with a plaque (as seen in the lower left) recognizing the donations and support of various local groups and companies.

The ThunderShell still finds use during the early summer from nearby PACI for various community events and occasionally in the summer during the local Fringe Festival.

Another key feature of Waverley Park is the Port Arthur Cenotaph - originally built in remembrance of local soldiers who fell in defense of freedom during the First World War. The monument was later updated for both the Second World War and the Korean War, both of which saw local groups head overseas.
There has been, as of late, discussion about adding additional conflicts to the monument where local soldier have both seen action and given their lives in defenses of democratic freedoms - specifically the Bosnian and Afghanistan Peace Keeping Missions.
The basic design of the memorial is quite simplistic, being both immense and yet stark with simplistic lines. The monument is the same on both sides as well.

Before the renovation of Central School into Magnus Theatre there was an extended battle between members of the public and different developers who proposed, among other things, the conversion and expansion of Central School into condominiums. This battle went on for many years before the school was ultimately sold to Magnus. Many of the members of the public who fought the developers were actually former students of Central School. After construction of the new theatre was completed the remaining land was landscaped to blend into the existing park. The site of the former school's baseball field was transformed into this memorial garden.

First Base

Second Base

Third Base

Home Plate

On the hill above Waverley Park lies the Waverley Park Lookout. Originally built to provide views of Port Arthur's harbour the lookout has fallen into disuse as the Park's Trees and surrounding buildings have grown up into the line of sight. There are plans in existence to renovate the lookout, rebuilding the roof over the viewing area, and installing interpretive plaques for the benefit of the public about the history of the area and the view.

The boarded doors to the bottom of the lookout provided access to the radiant ground lights that used to be part of the structure. On both sides of the lookout, curved stairs provide access to Waverley Street Hill.

The only remnant of the Raydiant Sidewalk Lights that used to light up the lookout.

The location of the lights is easily discerned, however, by the colour of the concrete used to fill in the holes when the lights were removed.

The view from the lookout over the new gymnasium at PACI.

The view from the lookout over St. Paul's United Church and the surrounding neighbourhood.

At opposite ends of the park lie two important historical buildings - both important historical schools, in fact. At the western end, atop the hill, lies Port Arthur Collegiate Institute (PACI) the oldest high school west of Toronto. Although the current building itself was only constructed in 1909 the school has been on the site in various buildings for over a century. PACI is slated for closure at the end of the 2006-07 school year.

The imposing nature of the original school. Hidden from sight are the three additions made to the school.

The corner stone at the front entrance to the school proclaims that it was laid in 1909.

Above the front entrance of the school one can find this detailed carving of the Ontario Shield, surrounded by maple leaves. A designated heritage property, PACI was one of the first buildings in Thunder Bay to be recognized as such.

Designated Heritage Property
Port Arthur
Collegiate Institute

Designed by Henry Simpson of Toronto with George H.
Otto, General Contractor, this structure was built in 1909
with classrooms being added in 1925, 1954, and a new
gymnasium in 1972. The original design has Medieval
and Flemish architectural features and was built
of Simpson Island Stone.

The 'new' library, built in 1954. When it was renovated in the mid-90s some of the lower windows were bricked over. The hill it was built into was once the beach of a post-glacial lake, and is composed of beach sand.

The rear of the original school structure.

The last addition to the school was the large gymnasium built into the lower hillside. Its design angered many residents because of the stylistic clash with the classic look of the school.

Hidden behind PACI, alongside Red River Road is the school's meager athletic field. For most of the school's athletic needs they made use of the fields at the former Prospect School or the areas below the school in Waverly Park.
The eastern end of the park is home to the former Central School (Now Magnus Theatre).

Much of the school's original features have been preserved including the bell tower, the windows with rounded dormers, and the wooden front doors. Central school was constructed at Waverley Park after the government transferred two acres of the park to the City of Port Arthur in order that it build a public school for its residents.

Designed by Robert J. Edwards, the school was
erected in 1884. In 1901, an eight-room classroom
structure, designed by C.W. Wheeler, was added.
The two-storey brick structure has a symmetrical
facade and the straightforward design is
ornamented with elongated italiante brackets.
Central School is the oldest remaining school
building in the City of Thunder Bay and was so used until 1965

The current building as seen from the northern side. The original school at front, the 1901 addition in the middle, and the theatre addition built in 1999.

The stage area at Magnus Theatre is named the Dr. S Penny Petrone Centre for the Performing Arts after Penny Petrone, a long-time arts supporter in Thunder Bay and long associated with Magnus Theatre. Dr. Petrone is also known across Canada for her ground-breaking work on Native Literature.

Directly east of Waverley Park, across Algoma Street, lies a small triangle of land called Connaught Square, formed by the conflux of Waverley Street and Red River Road (formerly Arthur Street - Port Arthur).
The Plinth of Connaught Square. Behind the plinth (on the extreme left of the photo) lies the Geodetic Survey's bench mark for Port Arthur. Connaught Square is named in honour of the Duke of Connaught, Prince Arthur, for whom the former City of Port Arthur was named.

This square was named in 1936 for
Prince Arthur, Duke of Connaught,
Third Son of Queen Victoria. He was
serving in Canada with his regiment
in 1870, when Colonel Wolseley
named Prince Arthur's Landing
(Later Port Arthur) in his honour.
created Duke of Connaught in 1874,
He was Governor-General of Canada
1911-1916.

Geodetic Survey of Canada
The Elevation of this bench mark is 677.7 Feet above mean sea level

The bench mark is found in Connaught Park on a small concrete marker, all but unnoticed by the traffic streaming by on Red River Road. The centre piece of Connaught Park is the Centennial Shelter, providing a place of shelter and relaxation to pedestrians. During the Christmas Season the Knights of Columbus located a nativity scene beneath its canopy. Built as a Centennial Project in celebration of Canada's 100th Birthday in 1967.

Surrounding Connaught Park and Waverley Park is a grand collection of historical buildings including homes, public institutions, and churches. Already we have seen two of those buildings in the form of PACI and Central School. Many of these buildings are part of the Waverley Heritage District.

Trinity United Church is one of the oldest buildings in the Waverley Heritage District. Marked with a number of historical plaques the church sits at the corner of Waverley and Algoma Streets with a commanding view of southern portion of the city. The church is of the Early English style on the exterior and is clad in sandstone.
The church is also adorned with numerous stained glass windows including the one to the lower left which is located on the western side of the sanctuary.

The city of Port Arthurs'
first methodist church was built
on this site in 1871. The present
church, built in 1905 as the "Methodist
Church," was renamed "Trinity Methodist
Church" in 1908.
Architects were Langly & Langly
from Toronto who designed many
churches of this style throughout
Ontario.

Trinity Centennial
1871 - 1971

A century ago, in November 1871, upon part of
this site in what was then known as Prince Arthur's
Landing, Methodism came into existence in this area
by the establishment of Providence Methodist Church,
the first protestant church in the territory. From a
very humble beginning and through the zeal of its
congregation the church increased in membership and
service and in 1904-1905, the present edifice was erected
in what had become the town of Port Arthur and was named
Trinity Methodist Church. In 1925 in what was then the
City of Port Arthur Trinity Church entered into church
union and became Trinity United Church. It carried that
revered name into the religious life of the new city upon
the creation of the city of Thunder Bay on January 1, 1970

This tablet is erected one hundred years later by a
proud and grateful congregation as a lasting tribute to
the vision and courage of those god-fearing men and
women who laid the solid foundation which has made
Trinity Church a vital factor in the life of the community
and to the glory of God.

In 1957 a hall was added to the west side of the church. It is simple in design and its impact on the church's Waverley side is minimal, facing the lower Pearl Street side of the church.

The minister's manse of Trinity Church has been converted into rental units and modified so that entrance from Algoma Street is no longer possible. The home itself was built shortly after the church in 1914. The building is a half-timbered English Tudor style.

Everest Funeral home sits atop the hill at the corner of Waverley and Algoma Street. It is a subdued brick building with keystones above each of the main floor windows. Climbing vines add to the serene and peaceful nature of the building. As the times have progressed various mandated changes, such as the wheelchair ramp, have been blended into the building's facade as seamlessly as possible.

It is somewhat ironic that, at the time this picture was taken (summer 2006) the clock on the funeral home's signpost has no hands to denote the current time. The clock on the reverse, however, still has hands and functions as usual.

The front of the clock has since been repaired.

This is the Waverley Public Library, formerly the Arthur Street Public Library. The original building was the city of Port Arthur's main library. After an addition was built in the 1970s the main entrance was moved from the centre stairs (as seen at the right) to the top of the ramp on the left (in the picture above). Although there are no markers on the outside of the building proclaiming its history as the Arthur Street Library some of the older volumes inside are still marked with that name inside the front cover.

Across Red River Road from Connaught Park lies the Parrish of St. Andrew. The current church building was built in 1924-25 and is one of the youngest churches in the Heritage District.

It features a large, central bell tower with a crenellated peak.

The stained glass on the windows was not added until the late 1930s, well after construction was completed.

St. Andrew's Church is flanked by two other buildings - The church's rectory and the original St. Andrew's Church, which now serves as the Dew Drop Inn, a community outreach and free lunch, as well as other various church functions.
As one walks along the walkway on the right hand side of the picture you can see that many many of the windows of this building have been bricked over rather than replacing them in order to cut costs on upkeep as well as the heating of the building.

Updated - Summer 2008 - the front entrance of the Dew Drop Inn has been radically changed with the addition of a new section housing, among other things, washrooms for those who make use of the Inn.

In front of St. Andrew's Church is this heritage plaque in honour of the Reverend Richard Baxter:

THE REVEREND RICHARD BAXTER,S.J., 1821-1904
Born in Carlisle, England, Baxter came to Canada as a
child. He studied in Toronto and at the Sulpician College in
Montreal before becoming, reputedly, the first English-
speaking Jesuit novice in Canada. After his ordination in
New York in 1854, he served at various missions in the
United States and Canada and arrived at Fort William in
1872. He quickly became renowned for his selflessness and
legendary stamina he displayed on arduous trips along
the Dawson Road and the C.P.R. line. He was responsible
for the building of the original St. Andrew's Church (1874-
75) and is credited with establishing churches at Fort William,
White River and Schreiber. From 1881 until his retirement
in 1893 he worked tirelessly as a railroad missionary.

In front of the Dew Drop Inn stands a memorial to fallen members of St. Andrew's Parish who served in World War One. The granite monument is topped by an angel reaching upwards as to heaven.

Across Algoma Street from St. Andrew's Church is First Baptist Church. The building is almost one hundred years old and shows signs of great modification. The windows in the bell tower have been bricked over and the bells have long since been silenced. The building still sports two unique stained glass windows - one small circular one facing the front of the church, the second an immense artistic piece facing Algoma Street featuring Christ knocking at a door as well as a central dove. The lower, street level doors, are another more recent addition.

The original brickwork can be seen peeking out above the new entrance at left, marking the original windows that were removed with the addition of the entrance.

Windows along the side of the upper hall (another later addition) have also been bricked over but their imprints remain. The wheelchair accessible door is also a later addition, in place to keep up with changing building codes.

First Baptist Church sports a large number of stained glass windows including one of the largest and most spectacular in the entire city.
At left is a smaller example of the stained glass windows adorning the church.

Next door to First Baptist Church is a white rooming house that was once the original Central School building. It was moved to its present location with the building of the current structure to bear that name.

Traveling another lot up Red River Road brings you to this building which was once the home of Elim Pentecostal Church. The original building had a simple box-like shape, which can still be seen behind the new cream-coloured addition, added to provide more of a classical christian church feel to the building. Now housing medical services its origins as a church are still readily discernable.

There are a few large character homes along this lower stretch of Red River Road that abuts Waverley Park. Some serve as businesses and offices, while others have been converted into apartments. All have had their once large lots subdivided for the building of new residences.

Many, however, have been razed to make way for apartment complexes.

Note the large porch and second floor balcony. They hide a first floor bay window and stained glass around the front door. The third floor windows are all capped with unique dormers as well.

Regency Towers was built as a seniors complex in the late 1970s, replacing some of original homes along Red River Road and some on neighbouring Van Norman Street. It has been extensively argued that the construction of this (and other) apartment complexes has marred the historical flavour of the neighbourhood.

Opposite Red River Road, on the other side of Waverley Park lies Waverley Street, named for a fictional character, Captain Edward Waverely of Waverley Honor, is Sir Walter Scott's Waverley novels.

Along Waverley Street lie some Heritage homes starting with the McNulty House. Named for James McNulty, a local business man and owner of a local department store in downtown Port Arthur. The house features some interesting details including hexagonal bay windows on two separate sides of the house, covering the first and second floors, the large wraparound porch that is partially enclosed, the wooden caps along the ridge of the roof, and the brick lines running around the exterior of the house on each floor, capping each window. On the Park Street side of the building is a typical stone retaining wall since the house is built at the corner of the lot and the elevation changes drastically.

Across Park Street from the McNulty House lies the Port Arthur Armoury. An imposing brick structure this building is home to the Thunder Bay Military Museum and the 18 (Thunder Bay) Service Battalion, which is in augmentation of the 1 Service Battalion at CFB Calgary. The overall construction of the building suggests that of a medieval fortress including the crenellations and battlements along the roof line.

Behind the central flag pole is a stone emblazoned with the logo of the Port Arthur Regiment, dated 1913.

The large oaken front door survive with a few minor modifications made for modern security. The overall effect of the heavy recessed doors is one of strength and stability, not out of sorts with the building's purpose.

St. Paul's United Church is another of the the signature churches surrounding Waverley Park. It features Gregorian and Gothic Revival styles in its construction including a large, open air bell tower with hourly chimes. On the lower right is an elevator added in the recent past to conform with modern building standards and for to benefit of parishioners. Attempts were made to match its utilitarian design with the style of the larger building.

The keystone of the arch over the main entrance features a blazing bush, from the story of Moses, symbolizing both the presence and voice of God, as well as indicating that this building is holy ground.
At centre, just below the crenellated roof is a date plaque indicating the completion date of the building - 1913.

In 1952 this addition was built adding more modern facilities to the building. True to the building's name this wing provides large areas for the youth of the church including a gymnasium, classrooms, and communal hall. This wing also features a small chapel, accessible from the main sanctuary, the church offices, and 'Lady's Parlour': a formal sitting and meeting room.
The windows in the above photo provide light into the small chapel and feature stained glass designs. Like the elevator addition seen above an effort was made to match the new addition to the original building through like architectural styles.

St. Paul's United Church is quite important in the history of the United Church in Canada as evidenced by the plaque at left:

HISTORIC CHURCH
It was here on June 11, 1923, the the
General Assembly of the Presbyterian
Church in Canada, after two days of
vigorous debate, voted decisively in
favour of the Presbyterians uniting with
the Methodists and the Congregationalists
to form the United Church of Canada.
The consummation of the union became
effective June 10, 1925.

The St. Paul Manse is built of the same materials and features many of the same building styles as the main church. It was built on the site of the original St. Paul's Presbyterian Church after the new church was completed.

Unlike the homes on the opposite side of the park along Red River Road, this heritage home has not aged as well. The iron railing around the home survives but it has been cut in order to allow a street level connection to the porch entrance. The original gated entrance has been closed (off the right edge of the picture) but the stairs into the yard as well as the steps on the front porch remain. The house has, like many other large homes in the area, been converted into multiple apartments. The lack of general maintenance is easily discerned in the peeling paint. Still visible are the unique brick arches over the front windows as well as the brick caps over most of the other exterior windows. Many of the stone lintels remain as does the original pillar porch, although it has seen better days and seems in danger of collapse.

Opposite PACI along Red River Road lies the McCallum Wellness Centre - the home of McCallum Chiropractic. The building is a typical, square, modern medical building with a unique artistic piece near the front entrance, seen at about the centre of the picture at left.

Across Hebert Street from the McCallum Wellness Centre lies the Matthews' House. It is designed in the Queen Anne style and features a dominating corner tower and a roof made up of many dormers and gables. The tower also features unique brickwork marking each level. Note the stone lintels in place on many of the windows and the solid stone cap over the second floor balcony door. The Matthews' House is so named after its most famous resident - Isaac Matthews, a former Mayor of Port Arthur and prominent merchant. The Matthews's House still features an extensive yard, a rarity in many of the neighbourhood homes, but that yard is for sale in hopes of building additional housing on the site.

The Waverley Park Heritage District also expands into the area above Waverley Park as well, with many of the buildings found there to be historically significant. Many are clustered around St. Patrick's Square. There seems to be no recorded reason as to why this street was given this particular name - St. Patrick being the patron saint of Ireland while many of the early settlers of Port Arthur were Scottish and English. Perhaps some of the merchants who built their homes here were of Scotch-Irish descent?

Many of the homes surrounding St. Patrick's Square are grandiose and have lavish and unique features - below are some of the most architecturally striking and historically important:

Set well back from the road this home features a third floor balcony, an eastward facing bay window and unique dormers.

The ground floor of this home is clad in stone, not brick like the upper floors. The bay windows column on the east side of the building is also unique in the way it is capped at the roof.

Originally built as a duplex this home is unique in that it was originally intended as a multiple family dwelling and not converted into one later on.

This home is striking for its unique brick cap over the front porch area. The stone foundation is also in clear evidence here. A keystone adorns the cap over the front window on the main floor.

Porches are not uncommon in this area, neither are open air balconies on the second floor. What is unique in this home, however, is the size of the porch and the combination of the enclosed porch and over air sitting area.

There are three different designs of retaining wall in front of this home, each dating to a different period. It also features a unique rounded porch.

The house at left features a unique large collanaded porch on the main level as well as a still usable second floor balcony that is rounded on one end. In the early 1950s this home was owned by Andrew William Widenoja, a prominant Finnish immigrant, and ownder of Widenoja Timber and Construction.

At the summit of Red River Road, where it crosses High Street lies this home, a large estate featuring a covered receiving area for carriages, a colonnaded entrance on the lake ward facing side, gabled dormers, a small third floor balcony, many of the original four-pane windows, and a sun-lit study. My grandmother claimed that it was the home of an admiral at one time but of this I am not certain and cannot confirm.

The most noticeable building at St. Patrick's Square is one of the largest condominium in Thunder Bay - Waverley Park Towers. At sixteen stories it is certainly the tallest residential building in the city. The main floor includes a minor retail establishment and the building features subsurface parking, a novel concept in a city literally perched upon the hard granite bed of the Canadian Shield.

The roof of the building is the site of many local transmitters due to its height and commanding presence over the heart of downtown Port Arthur.

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Waverley Park Heritage Conservation District