Baikal IZH-46(M) Disassembly Instructions

 

by Todd Cooper

 

 

The following instructions were created as I disassembled my old IZH-46 pistol. This was an old pre-1998 model that I bought as a used product. The valve seal eventually started leaking but was fixed by simply cleaning and lubricating with Crosman Pellgunoil. The problem seemed to be lack of proper lubrication.

 

Names and numbers for parts will be taken from the diagram in the manufacturer’s manual (see below instructions).

 

Back end disassembly:

1 - Remove the grip panels by removing the 3 grip screws.

2 - Remove screw #20. This is the small screw in right side of the slide (2).

3 - Disconnect the cover tie (65) by sliding the slide forward.

4 - The bar (7) can then be removed by slipping the rear through the notched out part in the slide (2). Rotate it out.

5 - Unhook blocking lever spring (4) from blocking lever (3) using a pair of needle nose pliers.

6 - Remove large drift pin holding cover lever (57) and blocking lever (3) in place. Hold these two parts together upon removal so you remember how they go.

7 - The valve stem (17) should slide out with a little coaxing. You might have to pull the trigger if pistol is cocked. You also have to hold down the valve sear (14) with a small screwdriver because it blocks the stem removal. The sear is only under spring tension so little effort is needed to hold it down.

8 - Remove main valve (9) and valve spring (13) from rear of pistol. Sear must be held down for removal of these parts.

 

That's as far as I went on the back end of the pistol.

 

Front end disassembly:

1 - Remove yoke (21).

2 - Remove 2 hinge pins (8)

3 - Linkages will slide out now, after the plug (23) and block (26) are removed. Take notice of how they all fit together so you can replace them the same way.

4 - Slide linkages and piston (6) out of pistol.

5 - Remove drift pin in frame. I cannot find part # on this pin. It‘s the pin that goes through the cylinder (29). It is located below the "IZH-46" print. The pin needs a good punch for removal as it is very tight. I made a punch from an old allen key and hardened it with a propane torch.

6 - Remove cylinder (29) from frame by rotating counter clockwise. You can put a screwdriver through the hinge pin hole for leverage. A little heat on the cylinder will help. I danced a propane flame over the cylinder from a distance until it was very warm to the touch. Don't overdo this. Just warm it up.

7 - There is a rubber packing ring (35) in the frame that you will see when the compression chamber is removed. I removed it and lubed with Pellgunoil to ease reassembly.

8 - Next I made a small hook from a large paperclip and pulled out the valve seat (30) by hooking inside it and sliding it out. The valve seat in not fastened in but might be stuck on the lock (31). The lock is actually the inner seal that I wanted to remove and inspect/lubricate.

The hook I made by straightening out the paperclip and bending a very short (approx 2mm) end at 90 degrees. This hook would enter the valve seat (30) and provide some pulling ability.

9 - Once the valve seat is out, I hooked the lock (31) and pulled it out using my paperclip tool. The lock is a rubber seal that is sandwiched between the valve seat (30) and the bush (32). I didn't need to remove the bush so it stayed in place.

10 - The slide (2) can be partially removed by sliding it toward the rear sight and pulling it upwards. The slide spring (12) will pop out. You can clean under it and replace the parts. No need for total removal.

 

That's about it. I may have forgotten something but this is the process I recorded.

 

Notes:

There is no need to remove any trigger parts to get to the seals, which is a point that I like. My trigger was set up sweet and I didn't want to muck with it.

 

To clean out the old factory lube you only have to do a partial front end disassembly. Only go as far as removing the piston. You do NOT need to remove the compression cylinder tube (29). Just use some paper towel and clean out the Russian lube and replace with Pellgunoil or Secret Sauce. The linkages and pivot pins can be lubed with moly paste for smoothness and longevity.

 

Crosman Pellgunoil works fine for lubing the piston seal and inner seal on the IZH-46 pistol. To lube the inner seal you can put a drop or two in the transfer port and close the breech. Fire the trigger and prop the pistol so the lube can flow towards the muzzle. The piston seal can be lubed periodically for maintenance. When the cocking lever is opened the seal and piston can be lubricated with a couple of drops of Pellgunoil.

 

 

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Copyright 2006